Explore Cambodia’s Historic Railway from Battambang to Phnom Penh

I truly am a believer that if there is a train to ride, the train must be ridden…taken? Well you get the point. I love trains and so when I realized that Cambodia had reopened their rail line connecting Battambang and the capital Phnom Penh, it was a no-brainer. A chance to witness gorgeous landscapes, a prolonged travel day, snack stops in small villages? I was hooked and if you are too, here is your complete guide on taking the train from Battambang to Phnom Penh.

Battambang? Where and what is it?

If you haven’t heard of Battambang let me fill you in right now, it is a charming town in the northwest of Cambodia. Accessible by bus and boat from Siem Reap and by bus and train from Phnom Penh. It was the once-upon a time cultural capital. A heritage that lives on in its colonial era buildings, vibrant street art and a budding café culture. It has a relaxed vibe and a slow paced charm that sucks you in. With natural attractions, a deep history, great cafes and street food and friendly locals, it is a great place to slow down your trip. Although I may be biased as I went intending to spend 2 days and stayed nearly a week.

Where to Stay in Battambang?

I stayed at the Por Chey Hostel and Guesthouse. This is an excellent and clean hostel with the friendliest staff and onsite restaurant. They have scooters and bicycles for rent and they are well informed on things to see in the area.

The location for Por Chey is a bit removed from the downtown core and while that is nice as you are meters away from a local open air market, there may be other options more central if that is your pace.

So you’re ready to leave Battambang?

To journey to Phnom Penh by train could not be easier. There are plenty of reasons to take it. For the history buffs it may be because the train system initially was installed during the French colonial power, then funded on and off by a variety of countries including most notably Australia. Eventually the trains stopped running regularly with the last service being in 2009. That is until recently when in 2018 the route was reopened and Cambodia had once again rejoined the railway club. For the nature lovers this journey rolls past lush rice paddies and small villages and as the sun sets you rush past high mountains. For me it was the excitement of a combination of these things. A sliver of history, a glimpse of nature and the most important for me, the slowed pace of the journey. I mean nothing is better than stopping right before sunset to take a pee brake in a questionable hole and then refill on a glass bottled Fanta that is crisp and cold. Or the chance to hang out the window as the train slows to watch hundreds of cows cross the tracks. In short the train ride is an “activity” in itself.

Leaving from Battambang station at 15:00 every day and arriving into Phnom Penh anywhere between 7.5 and 9 hours later ( I guess depends on the cows!), the train schedule can be found here. The tickets are at 8 USD and can be bought at the office a day in advance(recommended), online here, or an hour and half before departure (my experience).

• For departures from Phnom Penh to Battambang refer to the schedule on Cambodian Royal Railways Facebook page.

How to enjoy the LONG journey

Snacks are a must and even a prepacked sandwich would be great. Bring enough to share as you never know who you’ll meet and I think sharing food is such a great way to start a conversation. A book, music and whatever other entertainment you need! A bathroom and drink stop is made about halfway through but its still recommended to bring as much water as you think you’ll need. Otherwise settle in and enjoy the slow down!

The train I took had 3 passenger carriages with an old-school booth type seating. There were plastic bins for trash under the seats. Open windows to compliment the small semi-working fans that hung from the roof of the carriage. In the burn season it can get quite dry so a scarf or mask might be necessary depending on how well you do with dust.

Arrival in Phnom Penh:

Getting into the megacity after bumbling in the countryside is a bit of a shock to the system but rest assured the pace of Phnom Penh isn’t so fast to be unwelcoming. If you are anything like me then arriving late at night you may be a bit hungry and tired. I can highly recommend the very convenient Burger King (still hunting down a sponsorship from them!) across the street from the train station. It is also a great spot to calibrate, get your bearings and hire a taxi as the BK is attached to a gas station… super classy but truly the Whopper I had post train ride saved me! In any case, either negotiate with a taxi or use Grab or Uber to call a ride to your hostel/hotel.

Phnom Penh is towering with high skyscrapers over family homes over small street side constructions. It is a feast for the senses and worth a day or two to get a sense of the historical importance. If you had to choose two places to visit(other than Burger King) I would recommend:

The Royal Palace is a great morning visit and a perfect display of the Cambodian royal design. Be sure to wear appropriate clothing and check their website for more guidelines.

For a deeper understanding of the genocide that occurred in Cambodia’s recent history, Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a deeply moving memorial of the atrocities that occurred between 1975 and 1979.

For more info on what to do in Phnom Penh check out this great guide by Wanderlush here.

Where to stay in Phnom Penh?

For places to stay I can recommend Villa Papillion as they are well located to main roads and attractions. The owner is nice and they offer breakfast. Additionally they have both dorms and private rooms.

For people traveling in groups another good option is Empire House Hotel, which has basic clean rooms and a good location near the bus stops from Vietnam and onward travel.

And there you have it your guide on slow train travel from Battambang to Phnom Penh.