Your guide to visiting Bangladesh’s capital city
The heaving city of Dhaka is not somewhere people usually head for a city break. In all fairness, Bangladesh is not on many people’s radars or even bucket lists. This however is a mistake as the country and its capital open up with rich food, culture and possibility.
Dhaka is home to over 10 million people. It is hot, packed and grimy. And in many ways it is an onslaught for the senses. If you’re arriving in Bangladesh through the international airport, it is only a matter of minutes before you are introduced to the sardine effect that is Dhaka. This however is its beauty. Amidst highways and traffic is the vibrancy of life in Dhaka. Sarees float in the afternoon sun, food stands crop up on every corner and music of the bollywood variety is always playing.
Below is the complete guide to how to best spend your time in the hectic capital, Dhaka.
Walking tour with The Urban Study group:
Let’s face it, you are probably not prepared to wander the old town of Dhaka by yourself. I certainly wasn’t- the jumbled streets and alleyways act as highways. Little nuggets of history can easily be skipped over if you don’t know what you want. That’s why taking a tour, and specifically a walking tour, is the way to go. One great option is the Urban Study Group.
The Urban Study group hosts tours with guides who are passionate about the preservation of Dhaka’s old town. Their knowledge on the history, the culture and the people of these neighborhoods creates a one of a kind experience in Dhaka.
The tour takes you around the different religious sites including the Christian cemetery, a Hindu temple and a Mosque. It focuses on old colonial buildings and the communities that now fill them. The team is dedicated to preserving the history of this historic portion of Dhaka.
Contact them here:
Day trip to the old city
If you are looking for some fresh air a trip to Sonargaon might be the right fit. Combining a break from traffic and a peak into rural life, this historic city was once a capital of the Bengal region. Located about 40 km outside Dhaka, Sonargaon and the section of Panam City, showcase the rich Bengali history. Mughal, Sultanate and British architecture stand side by side in the sleepy countryside. The highlights include lush gardens, friendly locals and well preserved buildings.
Visiting this area is made easiest with a guide or driver. Ask at your hotel for a recommended driver or search Viator for tour options.
Explore the Gulshan area
The trendy neighborhood of Gulshan is where you can find the expats, the elite and the embassies. This means the streets are a little less hectic, the sidewalks a little wider and the prices a lot higher. However if you are wanting a day of park strolls and cafes this is the neighbourhood to hit.
Grabbing a breakfast at any of the chic spots like Epicure Bistro and choose your own adventure from there. Take a visit to the Edge Gallery, an excellent space showing local and foreign artists. Or around the corner visit Justice Shahabuddin Ahmed Park, a lush greenspace with shade from the heat. There you can pop into The Bookworm bookshop or stop at North End Roasters for an AC break and coffee. Wander around more to find street vendors selling chai or samosas. Find a bench to people-watch or simply cafe hop for the afternoon.
The shady sidewalks and the large presence of internationals means this neighbourhood feels completely unlike Old Dhaka. This is the area for Dhaka’s upwardly mobile, and it is a sight to see in itself.
Visit one of the clubs
Now if you’re thirsty in Dhaka you will be hard pressed to find any cocktails out on the streets, the near total prohibition on alcohol means you’ll be enjoying it behind closed doors.
One of those closed doors is the Nordic Club. A cultural club that hosts events, has a bar and offers other traditional club services such as a pool,tennis court and spa. In a word, it is a luxury.
So if you desire to see how the other half lives, and foray into the world of diplomats and legal margaritas then a trip to the Nordic Club is for you. Reach out to them in order to see what events are on and what the current regulations for non-members are.
Shopping:
Bangladesh is a country unafraid of vibrancy and colour. This is reflected in their art, their clothes and even their food. So it is a no brainer that you will want to take some bits home with you. There is thankfully no shortage of shopping possibility. Whether you want something specially made or off the rack- Dhaka has it all.
Here are a couple of shop to stop by on your hunt for the perfect souvenir:
Aarong is a chain store that supports artisans from all over the country. They sell everything from household knick knacks to sarees. The shop ethically sources handmade products from Bangla artisans in an effort to empower and provide them with sustainable livelihoods. The products are simply beautiful and even if you don’t buy anything it’s worth a stop.
Jatra is a little boutique shop with handicrafts and souvenirs. The shop is on two levels with everything from jewellry to postcards. It is a showcase of Bangla art and history with a lot of the items showing versions of Dhaka from decades past. On the top floor there is also a restaurant that serves up some of the best dahl.
Where to stay:
Full transparency I stayed with a friend while in Bangladesh, but these were a couple of hotels recommended to me by other travelers:
- The Capital Hotel was recommended to me by a group of German guys I toured around Panam City with. They liked the location and hospitality.
- In the Gulshan area a budget friendly option is Maya Eco Guest house. They offer comfortable rooms in a walkable area.
- Also in the Gulshan area, The Way offers more of an upscale option. They provide comfortable accommodation in a higher end hotel.
Final notes:
Dhaka is shock to the system in the best way. The busy chaos of the city may not be for everyone but I challenge you to stay a few days and gain some insight into the rich Bangla culture that is on full display here.
Hopefully this guide will give you some insight on how to optimize your time there.
If you need any more inspiration, check out this post: Bangladesh, an unknown frontier.
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