Brunei is often cut down to its capital; Bandar Seri Begawan. Tiny countries and their lack of tourism appeal fall into this trap frequently. But Brunei is much more than a small fly-by country. Located on the island of Borneo, with a size roughly twice that of London, it is lush and fascinating as much as it is difficult to access. Like Singapore, its big brother, Brunei often gets added to people’s lists just because it’s there. Thrown onto a checklist and contributing to those who count countries. However, for those curious and desiring a slower approach, Brunei is a wonderful option to explore for more than a few days. Not only can one gain insight into this fascinating country but also the greater changes taking place on the Asian continent.

Brunei, with a population of less than a million people, is not an easy country to travel through. Trust me, after spending 2 weeks here, I relied heavily on the kindness of strangers to help me get around. Most people will land in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan( Bandar for short) Or cross over the borders from neighboring Malaysia. I landed late afternoon into the airport of the not so bustling capital. I know, not selling it just yet. Missing the bus as I exited the arrivals lounge, I was lucky enough to share a cab with a fellow tourist. Such was the baptism of tourism in Brunei. I soon got used to sharing transport with other foreigners as the public transit system is a bit underdeveloped owing to everyone owning cars. No seriously, Brunei is home to over 300,000 cars…. considering the population of around 450,000 people – it is a lot of cars!

Bandar presents as a modern capital in almost all the blogs I read pre-arrival. However upon further exploration the buildings resemble a carcass of a metro city from the 90s . While there is no doubt that it is the hub of the country, the architecture is hodgepodge and fascinating. Wandering around I discovered a burgeoning café culture, ostentatious mosques and shophouse facades. In the capital alone many sights and things to do can be done in a day or two, and further out there are plenty of daytrips.

Here were my highlights of Brunei.

River Cruise:

If you walk along the river that runs through the capital for about 10 minutes, a boatman will float up next to you offering a tour. If this doesn’t happen, you can also ask at any of the hotels to organize a trip for you. In any case, this is one not to miss. A journey down the river instantly reminds you that you are on the famous island of Borneo. Spot crocodiles, endemic plants and if you’re lucky, proboscis monkeys. The journey then will drop you at Kampong Ayer, the famous stilt village of days past. Walk along the thin planks that connect hundreds of homes. While this is a remnant of Brunei’s past, it is fascinating how it keeps pace with the contemporary environment around it. End the trip back at the pier and the heart of Bandar.

Pro tip: be sure to barter the price or look at your hotel/hostel for a group to cut costs down.

Gadong Night Market:

Accessible, partially, by bus, this market is the perfect introduction to the food culture of Brunei. As the evening sets in, the market gets busier and busier. Find the spots with the longest lines and be sure to try some of the fan favorites. As most people speak English, don’t be shy to ask for advice or recommendations from the people around you.

Wander the City:

This is best done in the morning to give yourself a break from the heat. Wandering around the city you can run into a lot of the landmarks like the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the Royal Regalia Museum. Take a coffee break at The Lane Micro bakery, where they have mastered the Pain Au Chocolate. Or stop into the number of cafeteria style restaurants for a combination of curries.

Stay or visit the Eco Ponies Garden:

I spent the better part of two weeks volunteering on this project with its wonderful owner Eyon. Nestled about an hour away from the capital, this garden and farm stay project hosts several activities such as cooking classes, stays and insight into local Bruneian life. As soon as you leave the city, a completely different reality unfolds as the lush jungle reclaims the environment where high-rises are traded in for family homes.

For more information contact Eyon at Eco Ponies here

• While I didn’t make it there, the Ulu Temburong Nation Park was recommended. Daytrips can be organized from Bandar Seri Begawan.

A note on getting around the country:

Alright, it is not easy to navigate the bus system in Brunei. Most of the time I asked locals they didn’t even know a bus system existed. It does and there are bus stops in the downtown area of Bandar and at Gadong Market. The buses are normally in the old minibus style and once one stops ask the driver for the destination you’d like to go to. They will normally know the number or the bus or point you to someone that does. For buses onward to Malaysia or to other parts of the country you’ll have to head to Gadong market. Tickets can be purchased online.

Onward buses to Lamunin, Brunei are available and more current info can be found from your hostel or hotel or by referring to the Land Transport Department’s website

Where to stay in Bandar Seri Begawan:

For those on a budget (like me), Co Living Hostel offers affordable dorms. Or you can opt for private rooms at Qing Yun Rest House.

Although Brunei lacks big ticket tourism spots, the country has a lot to offer. The people, the food and the nature are reason enough to slow your trip down to fully appreciate life in the Sultanate.