Your go to guide on my favorite cafes and food haunts in Kuching

Kuching, the capital of Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo, is home to a rich and diverse history and culture. And what’s more? It is bursting at the seams with food and coffee opportunities. The culinary and café scene in Kuching puts on full display the crossroads of tradition and modernity that Malaysian cuisine continues to explore. Read on for a breakdown of my top 10 places to try in Kuching for your next stay (plus where to find cheap beers and drink with the local crowd!)

Noodles and Dumplings: These two spots are worth visiting for their fan-favorites such as steamed dumplings and noodle soup.

Green Hill Corner: My white whale in Kuching was the highly recommended beef noodle soup from this food court. Everyone I met recommended the tender beef with the herbed broth, that dazzling combination of rich meat and delicate coriander.. but each time I went they were out of it. Finally one morning I cracked the code… get there before the lunch rush, around 11 and you can be treated to excellent brothy beef noodle soup, wonton mee and if you’re lucky Laksa

Yee Siang Dumplings: Ordering everything on the menu is an option here, although you may want to pace yourself by starting with 50% of your options. Try the braised pork rice, some mushroom pork dumplings and the house dumplings… the pork is where this place shines and in all its variations it never looses its flavor or overwhelms the delicate notes of chive, mushroom or lemongrass. ..you can always order more don’t worry. The steamed dumplings take a bit of time but are worth the wait and so so tasty.

Cafes: Wanting a drink that is at bit trendier than the average teh tarik? Here are some Carpenter St favorites.

Zoey’s Cafe: Are you looking to people watch, catch up on some reading or spend the afternoon soaking in a bit of sun? Well look no further than Zoey’s, the definition of the emerging café culture in Kuching. It is trendy, artsy and a great little spot to enjoy not just coffee but everything from matcha lattes to sweet treats.

Yia Coffee Company: Just down the road from Zoey’s is the equally trendy Yia’s. It is a perfect spot for those trip planning days, catching up on your admin or journaling…or just enjoying the excellent coffee. Yia Coffee Company has seriously perfected their brew’s and they are more than happy to chat about the beans or Kuching in general.

Wind Meal Café: If you somehow have learned to ignore and in many ways begin to love the exorbitant amounts of butter and the sickly sweetness of kaya toast, then here’s your spot. Calmer than a hawker hall, with comfy seating at the start of Carpenter St, this is a perfect start to your morning… they have other bits if you aren’t of the kaya persuasion.

Food Courts: better know here as hawker halls. Essentially a bunch of individual vendors sell different or competing dishes while sharing a court for customers to sit and eat at.

Chong Choon Cafe: Sometimes you just need a big bowl of noodles for breakfast served with sweet iced teh tarik(pulled tea). This food hall has lots on offer and is bustling in the morning with families and workers and everyone in between… squeeze into a table then take a lap. My recommendation? Kolo Mee, the Sarawak dry noodle specialty with pork, scallions and fried onions…it’s light and it’s a great start to the day. Or try the laksa, the lighter more creamy version is a bit heavy for breakie but for those ready for it, dive into its tangy creamy goodness.

Lau Ya Keng Food court: If you’ve ever walked past a place and thought wow that looks incredible but I have no idea what to order- then Lay Ya Keng is your solution. Before you sit down you walk past a huge hunk of crispy pork belly which is what I call mouthwatering but is formally known here as Keuh Chap. A dish where they throw the crispy pork on noodles, then add a steeped egg resulting in something beyond delicious, the rice variation below is also fantastic.

CHUBBS: Okay, so maybe there was a point where I was sick of soups and noodles but this spot isn’t so much for the food, although that is tasty too, but for it’s modern take on the Hawker centers. Where daytime hours are home to the dozens of street food vendors of the 40+ age group, the evening is welcoming the new generation at this mini food hall. Young startups are trying their hands at not only local fare, but international favorites like woodfire pizzas and American standards like the burger. Head out for a drink, a small nibble and to cross into the new take on the hawker center.

Sit down service: these spots give you a break from the hawker halls and allow you to order off menus and take a more relaxed approach to eating.

Le Pau: This restaurant stands as the epitome of contemporary Kuching eating. It is a blend of the old and new, and it is phenomenal. Ask anyone on the street where to head for a good meal? Le Pau is the unanimous answer. Either make a reservation or get there right at opening because this is no hawker stand.. the food is a lot more of the indigenous cuisine of Sarawak…try midin(Sarawak found river veggie cooked and seasoned with fresh herbs) or the ayam pansuh (bamboo cooked chicken that is perfectly flavorful and juicy)… in short: the food and ambiance are not to miss.

Ceylonese restaurant: I wasn’t in the mood for noodles one day and I bet you might be in the same boat at some point… this is the spot for you. I was blown away by the naans, light and fluffy and the perfect pair for their creamy cashew curry. It gets busy and smoky so head over early and secure your spot for a great range of Indian cuisine.

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And last but not least, if you are in the mood for a cold beer, a harshly lit table, and a chance encounter with old guys who are prone to karaoke then head to the 555 convenience store. Its approaching seedy, its not necessarily atmospheric but its a fun place for a drink no less… enjoy your beers in their seating outside and grab some snacks to share.

So there wraps up the list of my top spots to eat in Kuching, Malaysia. Bon Appetit!

As a side note: this is by no means an extensive list… in fact a lot of it revolves around Chinatown and the famous Carpenter Street… I encourage you to explore wider and on your own but if the hanger hits these are some reliable spots to head to… or to seek out, I leave it up to you.