Two regions for a different side of Vietnam

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Vietnam, a country that lies in Southeast Asia,  is well known for its verdant landscapes, hectic traffic and delicious food.  The rich history, striking natural beauty and ideal location means that Vietnam winds up on the lists of many travelers. In fact the country is so full of things to do,see and eat it can often be hard to choose. Between famed bike loops and far flung islands, Vietnam offers a backpacker more than enough options… maybe too many.

I spent just over 6 weeks travelling from the north to south of Vietnam and could easily have spent another 2 months there. I fell in love with the distinct indigenous culture, the neverending varieties of local dishes and the ever changing landscape. I visited the cities and towns that are well known and obscure and below am highlighting two of my favourite spots. These two regions are a bit off the beaten track and offer a very different experience in this mystical country.

So why vietnam:

Located on the eastern edge of the Asian continent, Vietnam borders China , Laos and Cambodia. The country boasts over 3,000km of coast line on the South China sea. Tall peaks dot the northern provinces and low deltas hang at the mouth of the Mekong in the south. The country is home to about 100 million people, and about half as many scooters. Once a former French colony and having a long war through the 50s and 70s- the country is now home to relative peace, a deep contemporary history and of course a lasting cultural impact. 

Not only is it easy to get around and very affordable, it is the friendly people, great food and endless opportunity that will keep you hooked. All of that can be found in the two regions of Dien Bien Phu and the Mekong Delta area. 

On opposite ends  of the country, both areas provide a much quieter and off-the-beaten path experience of Vietnam.

Dien Bien Phu:

Located in the Northwest of Vietnam this city is often known more by history buffs and border crossers. The city marks the site where French colonial powers came to an end. It is also easily reachable from the Laotian border town of  Muang Khoa. The city is not well known on the tourist radar as its remote location is often overlooked. However if you decide to make the trek out there you will be spoiled with excellent regional dishes, rich culture of the dozens of ethnic groups and lush mountainous vistas. 

Here are some top things to do in Dien Bien Phu:

A day in the city:

The city of Dien Bien Phu is host to a variety of shophouses and spots to eat and drink you your heart’s content.  Coffee culture in Vietnam is as strong as their original brews. The cafes and street vendors that dot the wide avenues of the city are a great way to spend a morning.

• Check out Cafe Window for a great corner to people watch and especially strong coffee. 

 Follow that up with a tour of local cuisines at restaurants and street vendors alike.  Different dishes such as the famous Bun Cha and hotpots are all on display in Dien Bien Phu and here are some spots to check out:

•  Neighbor Beer is a massive evening place a bit on the pricier end. It does however have everything you would want to try including delicious tofu dishes, hot pots and pork belly. All of which I can recommend, this is definitely a family style place and sharing cold beer, a few dishes and the obligatory karaoke is all a part of the experience. 

•  Bui Tre is known around town as a perfect spot for a breakfast of bun cha a sweet and sour type of soup with grilled pork. They also offer vit lon ( a fertlized duck egg that is boiled) a bit of a braver choice but still delicious and on full display here.

• Tuan le Quan is right next door to a fantastic hostel(more on that in a second), offers great banh mi, local plates and at a convenient location if you need a quick reliable bite. 

Once you’re full and ready to move some more, a walk up to the historic Victory Monument. It is a bit of a hike up but is worth it for a view of the surrounding area and even sunset depending on when you head out.

An unforgettable tour:

North of Dien Bien Phu city there lies a region of lush mountains and sleepy valleys. Dotted with communities of H’mong tribes and Tai settlements, the region has largely been untouched by tourism. The striking cloud high peaks and the deep ravines that weave through this province are simply unimaginable. There is no better way to visit it than by a local tour.

Frontier Hostel & Tours offers one of the most unique experiences in all of Vietnam. Truly personalized, well-thought out and most of all respectful and sustainable for the communities which participate. The owner, Greg and his team of local guides offer unforgettable tours that lead you to villages deep in the rural north of the province. Sleeping in home stays on multi-day motorbike tour or even just a day hike with this company is bound to leave you with a lasting memory of this special region of Vietnam.

Full Disclosure,  I opted for this bike tour over the Ha Giang loop. My experience with this Frontier was better than I could have expected. For three nights, we stopped in a number of different villages, shared the most delicious meals with the families who hosted us, saw peaks and vistas that I still can’t beat and also gained valuable insight into the variety of ethnic communities that dot that region.Beyond this I didn’t see any other tourists for the 4 days on the tour and truly felt as if I’d been thrown into a different world completely. The company runs tours that directly impact and help the communities in a way that won’t lead to overtourism or unsustainable practices. They employ guides and drivers that know the area well, are fun-loving and above all focused on safety and respect for all parties involved. This type of tour won’t be for everyone, namely as it is more expensive than the Ha Giang operators, and for its more remote location. However if you want an experience that is uniquely yours, Frontier Hostel and Tours is the place to go. 

Reach out to them here for more info:

 +84 816 900 800.

Where to stay:

• As a no brainer, even if you don’t take a tour with them: Frontier hostel is one of the cleanest and most affordable places I stayed in all of Asia.

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Visiting the high mountains may be fun but imagine a world of waterways and verdant rice paddies. Rivers slicing through a number of islets, fresh fish and veg towering high on each long boat. Flavours that come from just down the road, this is the reality of time spent in the Mekong delta. The region is best known for its role in the war, and is most often visited in day trips from Saigon.

The Mekong Delta:. 

Venture to spend a bit more time here and you will be treated to friendly people, gorgeous scenery and some of the best food in the country. The city of Chau Doc is well located for two main reasons: direct routes to Saigon by bus and gateway to Phnom Penh by boat transfer. Beyond its practical attributes the city is bustling with street food, markets and access to the delta’s most pristine natural sights. 

After spending just short of a week in this region here is my guide on what to do:

Visit the local market and try local bites

The Chau Doc market is best visited in the morning, for full blown chaos and colour. Every single imaginable thing is on sale in a fashion that does not care whether you are there or not. It is a market so functional and so hectic you’d have to be born there to make any sense of it. But it is nonetheless a feast for the senses and should not be missed.

Check out the market here

A specific dish not to be missed in this area is Bun Ca, a fish shoup with a fragrant flavour that is popular in this region. Check out this vendor for a hearty bowl.

Tra Su national park and Sam mountain:

Just outside the city lays prominent Sam mountain, about the only incline in kilometers of lowland. It is famed for its pagodas and temples. Beyond offering many cultural insights it also give sweeping views of the surrounding waterways and Chau Doc.  Continue just a bit further on and you will reach the jewel of the delta, Tra Su national park. This preserved area offers boat tours that wind you through pristine green marsh, hanging tree are home to thousands of birds. It is a tranquil and picturesque environment. There are even restaurants in the park to enjoy a meal in the sanctuary. 

Getting there: 

• Visiting both Sam Mountain and Tra Su can be arranged either independently or with a driver. If you are one or two, consider renting a motorbike from a local agency such as from the Dong Xahn hotel. 
• Otherwise you can ask around your hotel or town for someone to drive you out there. This is the option I went with, having asked my guesthouse how to get there the owner, Phu offered to take me out for a small fee. I imagine you could also engage a Xe Om driver in the town. 

Where to stay in Chau Doc:

• There is not much by way of pre-booking in Chau Doc, but if you are looking for a clean, cheap place to stay with one of the friendliest hosts I highly recommend Bao Thy Motel. The host Phu runs a hospitable place on the other side of the river, it is nearby restaurants, cafes and walking distance to the main town.

Final Notes:

These two regions are striking and unique for how untouched they remain. The bustling population of each city will ebb and flow whether you are there or not. If you are looking for a unique and lasting experience in Vietnam look no further than Chau Doc and Dien Bien Phu.